It was a gloriously sunny morning when we waved goodbye to H么tel l'Orangerie in La Croix-Valmer and hit the road, bound for the majestic Gorges du Verdon. With our route carefully plotted (thank you, ChatGPT), we were all set for the two-hour drive ahead - snacks in the bag, good vibes in the air.
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| Two hearts above the gorge, held by wind and wonder |
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| The unsung hero of our Gorges du Verdon adventure: a smart little roadmap from ChatGPT |
About halfway into the trip, we made a very important executive decision: drink break. We pulled into the sleepy little town of Aups, the truffle capital of France, lured by the promise of caffeine, alcohol - or ideally both. Around 11 a.m., we stumbled upon a charming local restaurant where the lovely owner welcomed us with a smile, even as she was still setting tables for lunch.
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| The picturesque village of Grimaud on our way to Gorges du Verdon |
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| Aups, where historic buildings nestle among mature trees |
My partner went classic with a cold non-alcoholic beer, while I chose a strawberry spritz - because why not be fancy before noon? It even had herbs floating in it, which technically made it healthy (right?). As we sipped and chatted, our attention was completely stolen by a cat fast asleep in the corner, basking in the warmth as if it owned the place.
I asked my partner if he thought it was a stray. He looked at the cat, then back at me and said, “No way - that cat knows exactly where the best seat in the house is.” Naturally, before we left, he snapped a photo of our new feline friend - forever immortalizing the chillest creature in Aups.
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| ''I'm not lazy, I'm just conserving energy'' |
As we made our way back to the car, I spotted a little drama on the pavement - a butterfly, stranded and struggling in the heat. We had no water and none nearby, but I couldn’t just leave it there. So, I gently tucked it into a shaded flower, hoping it could rest and recover in peace.
Back on the road, the scenery began to shift - lush greenery replaced coastal views, and our ears popped with the rising altitude. Vineyards lined the route, each promising d茅gustations de vins. I couldn't resist teasing my partner about "just one more" wine tasting. He resisted heroically, grinning all the way.
Then came the climb - into the breathtaking Gorges du Verdon. Even by the time we had only reached 400 meters high, the views were jaw-dropping. Towering limestone cliffs - some up to 700 meters (about 2,300 feet) - hugged the surreal turquoise ribbon of the Verdon River. Often called Europe’s Grand Canyon, this 25-kilometer natural wonder stole the show before we’d even reached the top.
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| Just us and the Verdon - hearts full, cliffs tall, and wind in our hair. 馃彏️馃挄 |
As we continued higher, the canyon revealed ever more spectacular vistas. We stopped whenever a parking spot appeared, just to soak it all in. Around 1 p.m., our stomachs reminded us it was lunchtime. Google Maps pointed us to a restaurant around a bend, but to our disappointment, it was closed. Still, we made the most of it - taking beautiful photos with the breathtaking backdrop.
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| The Verdon River winds through limestone cliffs |
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| A quiet moment at Pont de l'Artuby |
Eventually, we found a small bistro, the only one open. They didn’t have warm sandwiches or fries, but the kind owner recommended the nearby H么tel Grand Canyon du Verdon. We were grateful for her advice. The road there gifted us with more canyon panoramas, so we stopped a few more times before finally settling in for lunch.
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| Love at the edge of the world |
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| Our wonderful car for our road trip |
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| 馃挄It’s the sweetest honor to be the muse in his eyes馃挄 |
The restaurant was charming and affordable. My partner had lamb steak, I had beef lasagna, and naturally, we toasted with an Aperol Spritz and a non-alcoholic beer. The heat was heavy, and after eating, we both felt deliciously sleepy - especially me.
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| My lasagna |
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| My partner's lamb steak |
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| Coffee after lunch |
As we prepared to continue our journey to our hotel in Aiguines, the sun filtered through the pine branches and the cliffs rose protectively around us. We slipped into a quiet, golden moment - hushed and warm, sheltered from the world.
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| Standing on the edge of wonder at Gorges du Verdon |
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| Swept off my feet - by him and by the cliffs |
Eventually, we resumed our drive, taking about an hour and a half with frequent photo stops. When we arrived at Chambre d'h么tes - Ferme de Chanteraine, the road was rough and remote, but the view was worth every bump. It felt like we were in the middle of nowhere - paradise.
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| The majestic Lac de Sainte-Croix |
We arrived around 5 p.m., parked, and searched for the receptionist… who wasn’t there. Mild panic set in when no one answered the number on the door. “How do we check in?” we wondered.
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| An empty lounge.. we looked for the receptionist |
Luckily, we ran into a kind German lady walking her dog, Gatsby. She told us how she’d checked in - just knock on the door near the entrance. Voil脿! A friendly concierge appeared, baby in arms, and apologized for missing our call. He gave us a tour, showed us our beautiful room, and offered drinks. Then he suggested something magical: a swim in the hilltop pool.
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| The terrace h么tel, where we also had breakfast |
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| The view from our h么tel room |
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The hilltop pool
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We learned a wedding was happening at the hotel the next day and were lucky to have snagged a room just before the festivities. The concierge prepared us two chilled glasses of Leffe Belgian Golden Ale. We couldn’t resist.
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| Who can't resist Leffe? 馃嵑 |
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| The stairs to/ from our h么tel room |
We swam, skinny-dipped, and I even rode the swing - enjoying the fresh air on my bare skin! The air was crisp, the view over Lac de Sainte-Croix was stunning, and even with clouds gathering, it was utterly refreshing.
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| Floating above the world 馃挋馃彏️馃 |
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| Rien que nous, le ciel et le lac en contrebas馃挧馃挋 |
Later, we got ready for dinner and tackled the narrow road out. We made it! Our first restaurant choice was short-staffed, so on the concierge’s recommendation, we went to a pizzeria downtown. Let’s just say… it was the worst pizza we’ve ever had, and our server was a bit lost in translation, asking us to talk in English when we already were, having failed in French.
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| A curry pizza that made us question all our life choices 馃崨馃崟 |
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| En route to cr锚perie… but Aiguines gave us a royal detour 馃挍馃彴 |
To lift our spirits, we wandered to a nearby cr锚perie, and it turned out to be the best decision of the day. My partner had an apple-caramel-butter cr锚pe, while I had my favorite: butter with vanilla ice cream. We devoured them.
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| Cr锚pes so good, Aiguines, you’ve spoiled us馃構馃挄 |
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| Cr锚pes, baisers et magie proven莽ale |
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| Hands down some of the best cr锚pes we’ve ever had 馃馃挍 |
As we ate, the sunset unfolded before us—huge, golden, and radiant. The friendly staff chatted with us as we finished up, and we returned to the hotel under the soft glow of dusk, catching the last glimpses of the sun.
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| Golden hour, golden hearts |
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A sunset we'll never forget
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| Le soleil se couche, mais l’amour grandit dans sa lumi猫re |
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| As the village blushed beneath the sky’s final embrace |
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| Even the rooftops whispered poetry as the sun slipped away |
Before heading to bed, we visited the stables where three horses stood peacefully, and the hotel dog - a Braque d'Auvergne - bounded up to greet us, clearly catching the scent of pizza and cr锚pes. We finally curled into bed, fan humming gently, feeling full, sun-kissed, and so deeply content.
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| Three gentle souls grazing quietly near our hotel 馃惔馃尵 |
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| The sweetest four-legged host 馃惥馃挄 |
Tomorrow would bring more of the Verdon’s magic - but for now, we slept soundly.
✨ Travel Tips: Gorges du Verdon & Surroundings :
馃椇 Plan your route in advance
Cell service can be patchy, so download offline maps and mark restaurant/hotel options ahead of time.
馃殫 Driving the gorge is thrilling - but tight
The roads are narrow with sharp turns. Drive cautiously and allow time for photo stops and pull-offs.
馃嵔 Lunch hours are sacred in France
Many rural restaurants close by 2 p.m. Arrive before then or have a backup plan (plus snacks in the car!).
馃ゾ Pack swimwear & hiking shoes
Whether it’s the lake or the hotel pool, the water is irresistible. There are also trails with incredible views.
馃惐 Small villages = small treasures
Stops like Aups offer local charm, chance encounters, and unexpected joy (and the occasional nap-loving cat).
馃洀 Call your hotel ahead of time
Smaller countryside hotels might not have 24/7 reception. Confirm check-in details in advance.
馃嵎 Wine temptations abound
The route winds past many vineyards. If you're driving, plan to buy a bottle for later rather than taste on-site.
馃寗 Don’t rush
The Verdon is a place to savor. Whether it's the scenery, a slow lunch, or a moment of romance - linger.
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